More Tutorials

 

Blocks:

New York Beauty

Modern Snowball

Bow Tie 2 Ways

Heart of Mine

 

Techniques:

Bias Binding

Pointed Borders

Fabric Folding

Wool Roses

String Applique

Quick Vine

Paper Piecing

Curved Piecing

 

Projects:

Soft Book

Rosette Pins

Mini Journal Cover

 

Binding:

Single Fold

Double Fold

 

Continuous

Prairie Points:

1 Fabric

2 Fabrics

Many Fabrics

 

 

Paper Piecing: Evening Star Block

 

Tip 1: Standard binder paper (wide or college ruled) is an equivalent weight to paper piecing paper (15-16 lb). It feeds easily through home printers. And, best of all, it is very inexpensive! The down side: the blue lines. But, in most cases, they do not really interfere.

Tip 2: If you are truly a beginning paper piecer, I would recommend adding ¼” or more to all measurements. This will give you a little extra wiggle room as you learn the process.

Tip 3: It is a good idea to use a pressing cloth or other protective sheet when you iron if you have made your own photocopies of the paper pieced templates. The ink/toner from home printed sheets tends to come off when it is ironed and can leave a mess on the ironing board.

 

Prep:

Download your pdf copy of the instructions/templates HERE.

 

Templates:

Print a copy of the templates.

Be certain that all scaling has been disabled!

Rough cut the templates free. If your template did not print with a cutting line

(mine didn't in several spots) mark it in with a ruler, or just be mindful that you need a

1/4" seam allowance around the perimeter of each template.

 

Cut all of the fabric you will need to make the B units.

1

 

Set your stitch length to 2.

Position the first piece of fabric over the area marked B1.

The fabric and the paper will be wrong sides together.

It helps to hold them up to a light source so that you can check the positioning.

Also, be sure that the fabric covers all of B1 plus extra for seam allowances on all sides.

2

 

Pin in place, if needed.

The second piece will be added as shown.

The fabrics are right sides together and the seam allowances have been aligned.

3

 

Pin in place, if needed.

Flip the whole thing over and sew the first seam. This will be the line between spaces

B1 and B2 and will include the seam allowances. Back spacing is not necessary.

4

5

 

Flip the piece back over, open it up and press.

6

 

These pieces fill spaces B1 and B2. Now it is time to add B3.

Position the fabric so that it overlaps the line between B2 and B3 on the template by 1/4".

(NOTE: you are NOT aligning the fabric edges, but using the printed line as your placement guide.)

7

 

Pin in place, if needed.

Flip the whole thing over and sew the second seam

(the line between spaces B2 and B3, including the seam allowance).

8

9

 

Flip the piece back over and cut away the excess fabric from B2.

Note: If white is your background fabric, you may want to slight

grade the seam allowance so that there are no shadowing issues.

10

 

Fold the fabric back and press.

11

 

Position piece B4.

Position the fabric so that it overlaps the line between B3 and B4 by 1/4".

12

 

Flip. Sew. Flip.

13

 

Trim excess from B3.

14

 

Open and press.

15

 

Position piece B5. Flip. Sew. Flip. Trim. Press.

16

17

18

 

View from the backside.

19

 

Trim the pieced unit using a rotary cutter and ruler.

Don't cut off your seam allowances!

20

 

Peel the paper off (if you used a light weight paper and set your stitch length

to 2, this will be an easy process). Note: Some quilters prefer to leave

the paper on until the entire block has been finished, and some even like to leave it in

place until the whole top is pieced. There is no real right or wrong here,

so do what you think is best, (which, of course, is my way!!)

21

 

Paper piece the 3 remaining B units and then use

this same process to piece all 4 of the A units.

22

 

Arrange the units to form a block (alternate the A and B units).

23

 

Sew the units together in pairs.

Note: when working with a block that all comes together in the center

(like this block, or a simple pinwheel, etc) it is best to press these

final seams all in the same direction so that they form a spiral. This will help reduce bulk at the center point.

24

25

 

Sew the pairs together to form 2 halves of a block.

26

 

Sew the 2 halves together to finish the block. Press.

27